Vegan Garden Soil & Indoor Vegetable Garden – Part 3


Well everything is going well. I have successfully created quite the starter garden! These pics are about week or two old so you can imagine how things are going now. The seedlings seem to do ok with the soil that I made up which is a relief. Since these pictures I have weeded a few of the slower growing plants out as well as thinned the lettuce out of the red/orange container. I have also used quite a bit of lettuce as you can see from the pic below showing the clipped lettuce that is ready to be washed and eaten. We actually haven’t even bought any lettuce since we got these starts going! So we spent about $100 on soil and garden stuff and have saved probably $10 on just lettuce. I think I am getting close to feeding some things like the Kale to get it growing a bit faster although we have transitioned it outside along with the lettuce. We had to harden it off moving it from the tent to the window, then outside. Each step lasted about a week. The plants are doing very well outside. I think they like the rain water.

most recent pics 4-8-13 (1) most recent pics 4-8-13 (3) most recent pics 4-8-13 (4) Here are the latest tomato pics that I took, you can see how much they have grown. the next warm period they will be transitioned outside. I am prepared to cover them if needed so they don’t get any frost damage or whatever might happen.

most recent pics 4-8-13 (8)most recent pics 4-8-13 (7)

 

 

Vegan Garden Soil & Indoor Vegetable Garden – Part 2


Got another update coming really soon with pics of the plants. We are already eating fantastic lettuce!

Update: part 3 to this blog with pictures and more information http://www.veganicvision.com/vegan-garden-soil-indoor-vegetable-garden-part-3/

Vegan Garden Soil & Indoor Vegetable Garden – Part 1


This is a blog post that I will update frequently throughout the summer growing season. My idea is to build (as best as possible) a vegan potting soil mix for containers. Most potting soil has some type of animal derived ingredient. So to get a vegan soil for containers I will mix my own. This will consist of sunshine #4 mix, earthworm castings, organic vegetable compost (purchased from lowes locally), sea kelp, rock phosphate especially for my tomatoes, and humus purchased from hendrikus organics.

The sunshine #4 mix is just peat moss, perlite, dolomite lime, wetting agent and Mycorrhizae. The only thing I don’t like about this mix is the wetting agent it is “proprietary” so you never can trust that. One plus though is that this mix is OMRI Listed. Also after reviewing some of the fine print they use a feathermeal (animal derived obviously) and potash supplements that are supposed to last a week to get the plant started. I completely missed that information when I orginally purchased the soil. So it won’t truly be a vegan soil but after a week or so it will be all veggie power. Unfortunately that isn’t something I can take back to the store for a refund. If anyone out there knows a base soil that is vegan please let me know. I have looked into pro-mix but I can’t find a lot about it or even a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). So email me if you have it, I would love to look at it.

 

This is the compost that was purchased.

IMAG0104

So far we have planted tomatoes (3 kinds), lettuce, spinach, peppers (3 kinds), basil, catnip, kale. We have collards as well as some other things left to start.

The seed starting process has gone pretty well, some things are slower than others popping shells of their seeds. I have had to go from my 2′ x 4′ indoor grow tent due to lack of space to my larger tent which is 4′ x 4′. I think in total we have about 70 seed starts.

IMAG0119

We have more coming so it is really important to plan these things out. In my case we already have some indoor growing equipment t5 fluorescent light and tents. I like fluorescent lights because they are cool when operating, don’t use a ton of electricity and just don’t require a lot of fuss. This is perfect for a home gardener that wants to get a jump on the season by starting seeds. You can of course buy these but you don’t always get the special varieties that growing your own can offer as well as the satisfaction that you did everything during the process.

One small note I did have a fan operating on the outside of the tent to push some air in the enclosed space. I also opened the top to let hot air out. It is important to have some air flow as well as temperature stability. I wouldn’t go to much over 80 degrees Fahrenheit if you can help it. It is still cool in my house all day and night so it is easy to moderate those temperatures.

In the picture above the green container is a self watering container with 3 basil plants in it. I am interested to learn more about these types of containers due to their ability to save water from evaporation. If these work I would love to upgrade all my containers to similar setups.

I think we have spent about $100 to add to our current garden equipment with containers, soil and amendments. So it isn’t a bad investment and we should have some lettuce within a month or so. I will be updating this soon, just wanted to share my recent good fortune with my new veggie plant starts.

Keep it growing!

Update: Part 2 showing the soil that was mixed http://www.veganicvision.com/vegan-garden-soil-indoor-vegetable-garden-part-2/

2012 Hemp Harvest Video – Manitoba Harvest Hemp Foods & Oils


This is a cool video that shows a few minutes of a field of hemp being harvested. It looks just like any other crop that would be harvested in the late summer and fall. I found this on the The Weed Blog so thanks guys for posting this. Enjoy this and hopefully now we can begin having a conversation about legalizing hemp production in the USA. It is time we give the farmers a productive and profitable crop. I encourage you if you haven’t already to research hemp and the different products that can be made and created with this valuable commodity. Peace and enjoy the video!

 

Vegan Garden – 12 Tips


Vegan Gardening 12 tips

This helpful article from The Gentle World : For the Vegan In Everyone regarding veganism discusses growing cabbage, kale, cucumbers, eggplant, swiss chard, corn, as well as a few others. There are some really cool photos of the plants on this blog too. I highly recommend you plant your own garden to make sure you get the best food as well as continue to learn and explore what the power of vegan soil can do for your plants, body and mind! Now go plant some kale!

Vegan Fertilizer – Grow Veganic Nutrients


Grow Veganic is a site that I found recently that offers vegan nutrients for your garden plants. They offer Steady and Zippy which have different levels of N-P-K to get your garden growing veganically. I haven’t seen many companies that offer this kind of a product so I would highly encourage you to call them and ask questions about how this is made and anything else you can think of. We need to support farms like this because we know that they are doing all that they can to provide the best foods, nutrients as well as preserve the environment so that in the future people will have a chance to have great food as well. When I get my order in the mail and use mine I will post an update.

Veganics? – A how to guide


Beginner’s Guide to Veganic Gardening  by Gentle World

 

http://gentleworld.org/beginners-guide-to-veganic-gardening/

 

Vegan-organic gardening avoids not only the use of toxic sprays and chemicals, but also manures and animal remains. Just as vegans avoid animal products in the rest of our lives, we also avoid using animal products in the garden, as fertilizers such as blood and bone meal, slaughterhouse sludge, fish emulsion, and manures are sourced from industries that exploit and enslave sentient beings. As these products may carry dangerous diseases that breed in intensive animal production operations, vegan-organic gardening is also a safer, healthier way to grow our food.

In veganic growing situations, soil fertility is maintained using vegetable compost, green manures, crop rotation, mulching, and other sustainable, ecological methods. Occasional use of lime, gypsum, rock phosphorus, dolomite, rock dusts and rock potash can be helpful, but we try not to depend on these fertilizers as they are non-renewable resources.

Soil conditioners and fertilizers that are vegan-organic and ecologically sustainable include hay mulch, wood ash, composted organic matter (fruit/vegetable peels, leaves and grass clippings), green manures/nitrogen-fixing cover crops (fava beans/clover/alfalfa/lupines), liquid feeds (such as comfrey or nettles), and seaweed (fresh, liquid or meal) for trace elements.

A border of marigolds helps to deter certain insects, and they also have a root system that improves the soil.

Composted Organic Matter
A compost pile consists of food waste such as fruit and vegetable rinds, that is covered by course material like leaves or grass clippings. The object is to create layers of food material alternating with covering material to allow aeration. When a bin is full, the pile is flipped and covered by black plastic or weed mat to protect it from rain and create heat. It can be flipped again after a period of time, so the bottom becomes the top. Cover again and within a couple of months, depending on the climate, nature’s master recycling plan will have taken its course and you will have vitamin-rich soil.
Click here for more information on creating your own organic compost.

Green Manures (and nitrogen-fixing crops)
Green Manure is a cover crop of plants, which is grown with the specific purpose of being tilled into the soil. Fast-growing plants such as wheat, oats, rye, vetch, or clover, can be grown as cover crops between gardening seasons then tilled into the garden as it is prepared for the next planting. Green manure crops absorb and use nutrients from the soil that might otherwise be lost through leaching, then return these nutrients to the soil when they are tilled under. The root system of cover crops improves soil structure and helps prevent erosion. Nitrogen-fixing crops such as vetch, peas, broad beans (fava beans) and crimson clover add nitrogen to the soil as they are turned under and decompose. Cover crops also help reduce weed growth during the fall and winter months.

Liquid Feeds such as Comfrey or Nettles
Fill a container with grass cuttings, nettles, weed or comfrey leaves. Cover with water at a rate of one part brew to three parts water. Cover the container, and leave for two to four weeks. Preferably strain out (through an old stocking) the weed seeds and plant material that will block up the spout of your watering-can. Nettles give the best multi-purpose feed and comfrey alone will give a feed rich in potash.

Hay Mulches
Using a thick layer of hay to cover the earth feeds the soil with organic matter as it breaks down. It also suppresses weeds and encourages worms to live in your soil. When putting gardens to sleep over the winter, cover them with a very thick layer of hay mulch.

Seaweed (fresh, liquid or meal)
Used for trace elements. Seaweed is best harvested fresh from the sea as opposed to washed up and sitting on beaches. Some veganic gardeners use bulk spirulina or kelp meal (used for potash and trace minerals).

Worm Castings (Vermiculture, Vermicastings, Vermicomposting)
Re-establish natural worm populations in your garden. Composting worms love cool, damp and dark environments (like under black weed mat or a thick layer of hay mulch), and will breed optimally when these conditions are maintained. Worm castings are a rich, all-natural source of organic matter with lots of nutrients and moisture-holding capabilities. Earthworm castings are known to have an extraordinary effect on plant life. They improve the soil structure and increase fertility.

Lime
The primary purpose for using lime in the garden is to reduce the acidity of the soil, otherwise known as raising the pH level or ‘sweetening the soil’. Most plants prefer a fairly neutral soil for optimum growth. You can have your soil tested to see if it is acidic or alkaline. Lime also enriches the soil with calcium and magnesium. Calcium is essential for strong plant growth and aids in the absorption of other nutrients. Lime can also be used for breaking up heavy clay soil.

Gypsum (hydrated calcium sulfate)
Gypsum is also used where more calcium is needed, but unlike Lime, it enriches the soil without raising the pH level.

Neem
Known as the wonder tree in India, Neem has been in use for centuries in Indian agriculture as the best natural pest repellent and organic fertilizer with insect sterilization properties.

EM Bokashi
Bokashi is a Japanese term that means ‘fermented organic matter’. EM means Effective Micro-organisms and consists of mixed cultures of naturally occurring, beneficial micro-organisms such as lactic acid bacteria, yeast, photosynthetic bacteria and actinomycetes. It is a bran-based material that has been fermented with EM liquid concentrate and dried for storage. Add to compost to aid in the fermentation of the organic matter. EM Bokashi should be stored in a warm, dry place out of direct sunlight.

Green Sand
A soil amendment and fertilizer. It is mined from deposits of minerals that were originally part of the ocean floor. It is a natural source of potash, as well as iron, magnesium, silica and as many as 30 other trace minerals. It may also be used to loosen heavy clay soils. It has the consistency of sand but has 10 times the ability to absorb moisture.

Alfalfa meal, Flax Seed Meal, Cottonseed Meal and Soya Meal
Sources of nitrogen.

Epsom Salts
An excellent source of magnesium.

Dolomite
A finely ground rock dust which is the preferred source of calcium and magnesium.

Rock Phosphate
Phosphorus is an essential element for plant and animal nutrition. It is mined in the form of phosphate rock, which formed in oceans in the form of calcium phosphate called phosphorite. The primary mineral in phosphate rock is apatite.

Rock Dusts (stonemeal)
Used to re-mineralize soil that has become depleted through industrial and agricultural practices. It releases slowly into the soil and can be applied directly, in combination with other fertilizers, or added to the compost. These products have a highly stimulating effect on microbial activity.

Rock Potash (potassium or wood ash)
Potassium is an essential nutrient that enhances flower and fruit production and helps ‘harden’ foliage to make it less susceptible to disease. Rock potash is very slow-acting. It releases gradually as it weathers, which can take years. Use it when preparing soil before planting.

 

 

Water is a crucial component to cultivate cannabis; do farmers abuse this precious resource in their gardens?


This issue is most important for WA farmers on the east side of the Cascade Mountains. As a student who did several years of research on water issues in Central Washington I am keenly aware that this problem does exist. Most of eastern Washington is considered arid deserts as well as shrub steppe. A large portion of this area gets less than 10 inches of rain a year. Most people have to rely heavily on wells that over time have become increasingly over used and depleted. Most of these aquifers can not be refilled in any time scale that would be beneficial for humans in the next several centuries.So please treat this like a rare resource which is definitely is. If you think about how long this water has been under the ground it really is ancient and should be considered a treasure.

In the article they are discussing Northern CA farmers and the lack of water in the summer months. The water that is used in the seasonal springs (low flow in the most critical summer months) is incredibly important for the salmon and the overall health of the springs and life that surround them. The article discusses other ways of obtaining the water that is needed so as to not disturb the natural water ways and environment. I would highly encourage you if this applies to your situation to take these recommendations to heart! The idea is to farm cannabis at the same time doing what you can to limit the totality of effects on the environment that you cultivate the cannabis from. After all you don’t want to ruin the area that you live and work in.

Link for the article:

http://www.seattlepi.com/business/press-releases/article/Leading-California-Marijuana-Attorney-Says-3426322.php#page-1

Text of the article:

Chris Van Hook, founder of the California medical marijuana inspection service Clean Green Certified, says water and its usage will be a major issue for the 2012 medical cannabis growing season throughout California.

Crescent City, CA (PRWEB) March 22, 2012

Water usage by the cannabis industry and its devastating effects on the watersheds of California will become a larger issue for the upcoming 2012 outdoor growing season, says expert California marijuana attorney Chris Van Hook. He explains the problem and offers several steps growers can take to reduce water use.

“There can be no further doubt that the heavy water usage of large outdoor cannabis plants, coupled with the sheer number of plants being grown is having a major impact on the watersheds of the remote semi-arid environments of so much of California,” declares Van Hook.

He says some of the worst impacts are in the salmon-producing mountains, rivers and streams of Mendocino and Humboldt Counties. During the time the fish need the water most—mid-summer through fall—the water usage of the large outdoor plants is the heaviest. When the temperatures are reaching into the 80s and above, water-loving cannabis plants can easily use up to 15 gallons per day.

The salmon regions are already dealing with the effects of large-scale grape production with vineyards taking over much of what was recently dry rangeland, says Van Hook, but unlike cannabis, the wine industry is regulated and growers’ water use can be quantified and planned for in watershed management efforts. The grape growers are able to pay their taxes, attend water board meetings and lobby for water rights, or curtailments.

“As long as the cannabis industry remains in the gray area of state law and illegal under federal law, water usage will continue to frustrate the best efforts at saving the region’s water,” he explains.

While water usage may vary widely, one study of an outdoor cannabis farm during the 2011 growing season found the farm used 40,000 gallons of water to grow 25 large outdoor plants, from cracking the seeds to harvest. This comes to 1,600 gallons of water per plant during the entire growing season. The average yield of finished flowers was approximately 4 pounds per plant for a total of 100 lbs produced.

“If these numbers are scaled up to 100 farmers growing 100 plants, it comes to 10,000 plants using 16,000,000 gallons of water. Now let’s assume these 100 farmers represent only 5% of the growers in the county. Cannabis farmers are now consuming 32,000,000 million gallons of water,” explains Van Hook. “All of this water usage is unaccounted for, and the heaviest use comes during the hot summer months, leaving rivers and streams dry or clogged with algae.”

He continues, “Many people talk about the sustainability of cannabis farming, but the unfortunate reality is that if cannabis farming is to become sustainable it will have to be scaled way down in the semi-arid areas with little extra water and possibly moved down into the valleys with deep top soils and ample water. At the very least, each farmer will have to take a much greater responsibility for their water procurement and use.”

Van Hook says there are a number of steps farmers can take to reduce water usage. Installing drip irrigation and misters instead of watering from a hose reduces runoff and waste. Since grow pots allow a greater amount of evaporation by exposing the sides of the pots to the air and sun during the day, allowing the plants to grow through the bottom of the pots into the native soils reduces the evaporative loss. He also recommends growers only plant as much as they can actually harvest, process and store properly to reduce loss of finished product after the plants have used a season’s worth of water.

Van Hook also offers recommendations on how to best procure the water needed for the plants, saying there are two main methods currently in use: pumping from rivers and streams or the catchment in ponds of little creeks and streams on each farmer’s land. But each little spring that is collected, every little stream that is dammed, takes from the watershed and leaves less for the fish, resulting in dry rivers in August and September.

He recommends using two alternative methods, which go a great deal further in protecting the region’s water: 1) pumping during the heavy flow periods of early spring, and 2) rain catchment and storage.

“Consider this example back at the study farm during the 2011 growing season. A typical small stream in August was flowing at 1.5 gallons per minute. That 25-plant farm used about 400 gallons per day during that time—16 gallons per plant. To collect the required 400 gallons, all of the flowing water would have to be taken from that stream for 266 minutes, meaning the stream would be stopped for almost 5 hours. But that same stream was running at about 80 gallons per minute in the spring. To remove and store the required water would have taken take less than 5 minutes,” notes Van Hook.

He recommends examining the work of two organizations that are helping to lead the way with water conservation: Sanctuary Forest’s Mattole Flow Program and Friends of the Eel River.

Rain catchment works by catching and storing the water before it even gets into the watershed. Van Hook says rain catchment systems can be put into place on a farm with a payoff in 5 or 6 years. With more rain water than river water available, catching what is needed during the winter months helps growers minimize the procurement impact of their water needs.

“You catch 550 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet of roof per inch of rain. If you do not have that much roof space, a plastic tarp or sheeting on a slope can produce the same effect. Calculate what you need for the year and set the storage tanks up. Water from the gutters of a small cabin can store 60,000,000 gallons every year in Mendocino County—dry winter or wet. Rain water is a neutral pH and can greatly improve plant growth,” says Van Hook.

“Storing water either from high-flow periods or from rainwater catchment forces the farmer to balance the size of his crop with the amount he has stored. The water-balanced farms I see throughout the year are the ones with the smallest footprint on the region’s water.

“As the cannabis industry moves ‘out of the darkness and into the light’ as a wise friend once said, the issue of (unaccounted for) water use will become a greater and greater concern for California. The cannabis industry should lead the conversion to water-saving farming techniques,” he concludes.

Chris Van Hook has a degree in Environmental Studies from UC Santa Barbara concentrating on agricultural and biological sciences. He is a California Attorney working in medical cannabis compliance.

About Clean Green Certified
Clean Green Certified, an independent third-party medical cannabis certification program created by California cannabis attorney Chris Van Hook, is an agricultural process review and certification program based on the non-use of synthetic chemical fertilizers and sprays, and the building of consumer confidence that their agricultural products are produced in manner that is both healthy and safe for the environment. Their California medical marijuana quality control programs also include Best Practices certification, which allows the limited and responsible use of synthetic chemical fertilizers, and compliance with Mendocino County Code 9.31 (the medical cannabis cultivation regulation ordinance).

Clean Green’s expert legal team also provides services that include: medical cannabis expert witness testimony; on-site inspections; medical cannabis compliance for growers and for handlers/processors/dispensaries; formation of grower collectives and nonprofit corporations; commercial leases; product licensing; contracts and real property issues; administrative law; and permit assistance and acquisition.

For more information about the Clean Green Certified program, call Chris Van Hook at (707) 218-6979 or visit http://www.cleangreencert.com.

For the original version on PRWeb visit: http://www.prweb.com/releases/prwebmarijuana-attorney/california/prweb9316223.htm

Read more: http://www.seattlepi.com/business/press-releases/article/Leading-California-Marijuana-Attorney-Says-3426322.php#ixzz1r6KI5P7I

 

Barefoot Soil…almost vegan potting soil!


Below is a link to their website which sells a lot of different products.

https://www.yelmworms.com/index.php

 

Update: After talking to the owner of All Green Gardens and him contacting the sales person from yelm worms, we decided that this soil wasn’t the best for me after all. It seems that the coco coir in this mix dries out really fast and I want something with a bit of water retention to reduce the overall work load. Just wanted to update ya’ll on that.

 

The potting soil is what I refering to, the only non-vegan ingredient is oyster shells which could be harvested by combing the beaches for empty shells instead of using the shell after it being discarded for food. I am not sure how this was harvested/acquired but it is the closest soil I have seen around here that would fit the critieria of vegan. I imagine if they amended the soil with dolomite instead of the shells this would be an ideal soil assuming it grows healthy plants. I am also happy about it being a locally made potting soil, that is a first I think for around here! I will be going to check this business out and probably end up trying their products. I have already gotten some of their earthworm castings (since according to Kyle Kushman castings are vegan but it depends on your definition…) which will be tried really soon. I found these castings at All Green Gardens here in Tacoma so if you need some hit em up. Check these folks out!

 

Happy Holidays!

Value And Benefits Of Backyard Composting – Biocycle Magazine


http://www.jgpress.com/archives/_free/002446.html#more

 

weighing backyard composting materials in VancouverBioCycle October 2011, Vol. 52, No. 10, p. 35

Year-long data collection by 16 households in metropolitan Vancouver reveals that backyard composting is undervalued when considering boost to diversion rates and collection cost savings.

Authored by Elizabeth Leboe

THE North Shore Recycling Program (NSRP) is a tri-municipal agency of the City of North Vancouver, the District of North Vancouver and the District of West Vancouver in British Columbia. The NSRP administers the residential curbside recycling program and recycling drop-off depot and provides a variety of community education programs that support residential waste reduction. This includes backyard composting, which has a large role to play in partially diverting organics, the heaviest and largest component of the residential waste stream. Thirty-seven percent of the garbage sent for disposal from North Shore single-family homes could be composted at home.

weighing backyard composting materials in Vancouver

In 2008, the NSRP made a first attempt to estimate the amount of material the average single-family household backyard composts without any training or assistance; the result of this work is considered a “baseline” against which future studies would be compared. The NSRP estimated the weight of organic waste composted by single-family North Shore households (38,132 in total) based on data from various phone surveys conducted by NSRP and other studies. It was determined that 61 percent of households use backyard composters; 7.1 gal/week was the average self-reported estimate of volume diverted by composting. A literature search on density conversion factors for food waste found two different conversions — of 1348 lbs/cubic yard and 600 lbs/cy for food waste — so the NSRP used the average, along with a conversion of 350 lbs/cy for yard trimmings. It was calculated that North Shore households (with no composting support) were keeping 915 lbs/hh/year off the curb, resulting in 10,580 tons removed from curbside collection annually. By comparison, Metro Vancouver, the intermunicipal governing body of the Greater Vancouver Regional District, estimates that each compost bin distributed within its region keeps 551 lbs/yr of organics off the curb.

In 2010, a year-long study was initiated to address municipal and regional data gaps in the calculation of organic waste diversion rates attributed to backyard composting and to calibrate earlier calculated composting estimates. The findings of that study and their implications for planning and implementation of single-family organics diversion programs going forward on the North Shore are described in this article. Our conclusions following four years of research, surveys, pilot programs and evaluations focused on the topic of single-family organic waste are that Metro Vancouver’s diversion rate attributed to composting may be an underestimate and that North Shore municipalities are undervaluing the role of backyard composting. With new residential organics initiatives on North Shore’s horizon, ranging from outreach to curbside collection, the NSRP needed to replace all its estimates with an accurate measure of actual — and maximum possible — diversion rates of household organics through backyard composting.

STUDY METHODS
The year-long study involved 16 composting households, representing 54 residents, from the North Shore. These households were recruited to weigh and track the organic waste that they backyard composted for an entire year.
Volunteer households were required to undergo two separate training sessions: Project Startup, to conduct a presurvey, provide needed measurement materials and introduce weighing methods; and Compost Coaching, a personalized in-yard training session to optimize composting practices (see sidebar). In addition to indoor and outdoor scales, compost containers and data recording kits, volunteer households received monthly e-newsletter updates, were provided with telephone or in-person support throughout the year and were encouraged to participate in waste-reduction-related field trips and events offered in appreciation for their commitment to the project.

The 16 households using traditional backyard composters weighed their organics destined for backyard composting that were generated from inside the home (including low-quality household papers like napkins and egg cartons). Of these 16 households, 10 also reliably weighed the organics they would backyard compost from the yard and garden. Measurements took place from February to December 2010.

At the project’s wrap-up, all participating households took part in a follow-up survey and submitted their completed data recording sheets. Using the pre- and post-training household surveys and the recorded data, the study generated the following information for an 11-month period: Composting practices, confidence levels and perceived changes in volumes composted and placed curbside for collection; Actual weekly curbside set outs of garbage and yard trimmings; and Actual weights of materials from both inside and outside the home composted in the backyard. The results of these year-long measurements were used to calibrate the original 2008 and 2009 Compost Coaching evaluation (see sidebar) calculated estimates and to compare to Metro Vancouver’s 551 lbs/bin estimate used in regional diversion calculations.

STUDY FINDINGS AND IMPLICATIONS
These 16 volunteer households diverted 5.8 tons of organic waste from curbside pickup in 2010. Using data recorded for complete months between February and December 2010, the average study household kept 996 pounds off the curb during the year. By calibrating the 2008 baseline estimate from households composting without any support or training, an estimate of 796 lbs/hh/year is derived. Even though study participants were already composting prior to their involvement in the research, 79 percent of participating households increased the amount of material they composted and reduced the amount of waste they put in the garbage after they had their Compost Coaching session.

The diversion rate of household organics through backyard composting has now been accurately determined. Study results and their implications suggest that some changes are warranted to the North Shore’s municipal and Metro Vancouver’s regional assumptions and to the NSRP’s budget and programming priorities. Both the baseline calibration and the measurements with Compost Coaching significantly exceed the 551 lbs/bin/ year estimate used by Metro Vancouver to calculate regional diversion rates.

The next step was to apply the study’s findings to the potential impact on curbside organics collection. Compared to the 2008 North Shore average (from a statistically significant, randomized telephone survey), study participants decreased what they placed at the curb by half a can of yard trimmings and a full can of garbage each week. Extrapolated to all known composting households on the North Shore, residents compost 9,257 to 11,690 tons that the municipalities never need to handle or pay to tip each year; this is equivalent to approximately 1,500 truck trips and is almost the same quantity (11,726 tons) as the current yard trimmings collection service, which costs $1.5 million in fleet and salary-related collection expenses and $600,000 in tipping fees each year.

volunteers in backyard composting study
The North Shore does not currently include backyard composting in its municipal diversion rate calculation of 59.5 percent (2010). When composting is factored in using the measurements obtained in this study, the North Shore’s diversion rate is actually 67.2 percent. The single-family diversion rate is higher than has been reported to municipal staff, and approaches Metro Vancouver’s regional goal of 70 percent diversion by 2015.

AVOIDED TIP FEES

Two-thirds of the total garbage and yard trimmings annual collection service costs on the North Shore are in the form of tipping fees (charges levied to a municipality for dropping off collected materials — whether for disposal or composting — at regional transfer stations operated by Metro Vancouver). Each curbside collection stream taken to the transfer station has a different tipping fee set by Metro Vancouver. In 2011, yard trimmings cost $57.15/ton and garbage cost $88/ton.

At 2011 rates, each study household saves the municipality $35.44 in tipping fees each year. Although this does not seem like much per individual household, the extrapolated total avoided tipping fee costs for the North Shore’s population of composting households totals $874,227 annually. Tipping fee savings have the additional benefit of being cumulative as long as a composting household maintains its composting behavior. Over the past five years on the North Shore, the NSRP has invested approximately $16,100 in bin subsidies and backyard composting has resulted in avoided tipping fees of approximately $3.5 million.

This backyard composting study’s results suggest interesting implications for the municipal and regional management of solid waste. First, the NSRP’s study indicates that backyard composting is undervalued and is far more important than previously thought in terms of source reduction. In summary, on-site composting is an extremely cost-effective method to divert very significant tonnages without requiring intensive municipal services. However, residents who choose to compost instead of using the curbside collection services they’ve paid for through their taxes are not receiving anywhere near the level of support (through municipal program investment) as their noncomposting neighbors. It would be a prudent step to begin providing support, such as personal coaching, to those households wishing to further reduce their waste through backyard composting.

Elizabeth Leboe is a Community Programs Coordinator at the North Shore Recycling Program. She tends a large garden and composts for three families in North Vancouver, BC. For North Shore’s complete study report, please visit www.northshorerecycling.ca and click on “Composting.”

p. 36
PERSONALIZED COMPOST COACHING

THE North Shore Recycling Program evaluated the benefits of personalized Compost Coaching methods for backyard composters in an in-yard, personalized compost support pilot program completed in 2009. It estimated that 1,146 lbs/ household/year could be diverted to backyard composting. Because it was highly successful, this kind of training was provided to all households participating in the 2010 study measuring actual quantities of organics composted at home. Although not the main intent of this measurement and diversion calibration study, some conclusions may be drawn about the Compost Coaching service provided to study participants.

Compared to their habits prior to Compost Coaching, supported study participants increased their diversion of low-quality household papers from the garbage to the compost, kept more leaves for on-site use, used alternative recycling depots for non-curbside collected materials and altered buying habits to reduce waste at source. With training, the NSRP found that households compost almost 220 pounds more each year than unsupported households. “We only made 2.5 kilograms of garbage in the last two months and almost 50 kgs of compost,” says Melanie Solheim, one of the NSRP’s study participants and member of a four-person household. When contrasted with its low cost of delivery, personalized Compost Coaching services provide immeasurable social and environmental value beyond the direct tipping fee savings and decreased curbside collection requirements.

Copyright 2011, The JG Press, Inc.

 

This article isn’t entirely relevant to our main topics on this blog but I thought it was interesting that composting can be a very logical choice to break down any organics at your home. It is work but it is the in the best interest of your property to have the continual soil building activities in the natural environment. If this doesn’t occur then soil will just continue to run off and disappear. Composting saves space in landfills and is also a sustainable means of fertilizing your garden and contains all the beneficial microbes and organisms that are needed to have a true living soil. There are a lot of specifics to composting when you dive into the details and I was hoping to lead with this article into some more facts about composting here in the next week or so. Also worm bins will be a topic of interest coming up soon as well. I am currently using both of these means to help reduce my waste and use it in a way that is beneficial to me and the property I live on.

Peace and Happy Gardening!

Using Compost To Control Plant Diseases from Biocycle Magazine


http://www.jgpress.com/BCArticles/1999/0699Art5.htm

 

I highlighted what I thought was important to this blog but I would highly encourage you to read the entire article. It discusses the issues with some chemical ingredients to gardening. It tackles this topic from more of a large scale farming angle but near the bottom it discusses container mediums and different bio-control methods that may help with certain diseases in plants. I thought this was an interesting article and while it isn’t directly applicable to anything a better understanding between chemicals, natural bacteria, enzymes and fungi and organic nutrients. This is particularly important to organic and vegan gardening techniques since compost and other natural amendments are the primary additives to achieve the wanted outcomes such as high yield, high quality fruits, flowers and veggies not to mention healthy plants. I look forward to finding and sharing more articles like this to share. Please let me know if this format works for you and if you have suggestions please post them!

 

Using Compost To Control Plant Diseases
Researchers at Ohio State University evaluate the prospects for composts and biocontrol agents to replace methyl bromide to protect plants.

Tom J.J. De Ceuster and Harry A.J. Hoitink

 

From BioCycle Magazine
June 1999, Page 61

COMPOST USERS FORUM

 

 

Losses due to soilborne diseases on some greenhouse, nursery and vegetable crops can amount to thousands of dollars per acre annually. Until the 1930s, organic amendments — consisting of animal and green manures, coupled with crop rotation — were principal methods of control. But these approaches were largely abandoned for reasons of cost and inconvenience after commercial fertilizers and the broad spectrum soil fumigant methyl bromide (MB) became available. Applied on a yearly basis on some crops, this fumigant effectively destroys most pathogens in soils that cause these plant diseases. It also eradicates weeds and soil insect pests. For these reasons, MB has become one of the most widely used soil pesticides.

MB fumigation is most important in intensive horticultural systems where continuous crop monoculture is practiced and losses caused by soilborne plant pathogens are most severe. As a result, profitability of these crops relies strongly on the availability of MB. Strawberries in California and fresh market tomatoes in Florida are classic examples. Tomatoes, strawberries, lettuce, cucumbers, roses and chrysanthemums are examples for the West European growing region.

However, a major problem associated with MB fumigation and other soil sterilization procedures is that most beneficial microorganisms, such as mycorrhizae, biocontrol agents and plant growth promoting microorganisms, are also destroyed. The “biological vacuum” left after sterilization typically is filled within days after treatment by microorganisms that recolonize the soil. Whether harmful or beneficial microorganisms predominate after soil sterilization is determined by any of several environmental factors prevailing at that time. Obviously, recolonization by plant pathogens in the absence of biocontrol agents can have significant negative impacts on crop yield. During the 1960s, the nursery industry encountered serious problems with Phytophthora cinnamomi because it was often reintroduced after soil fumigation with infected plants or in irrigation water. Heavy Phytophthora root rot losses occurred on a regular basis on rhododendron, azalea and other crops highly susceptible to this disease.

In the 1960s, yet another problem was associated with MB fumigation. Evidence was obtained which implicated MB as a potent contributor to ozone depletion. For this reason, it is scheduled to be phased out by 2005 under the Montreal Protocol. Germany and Switzerland have essentially banned MB over this problem as well as bromine residues in food. Bromine can also accumulate in groundwater and be taken up by plants. MB has already been phased out in the Netherlands, which at one time was one of Europe’s largest users of MB for soil fumigation. Therefore, research on the development of alternatives has become a high priority.

Emphasis On Biological Alternatives To MB

Several alternatives to both MB fumigation and the pathogen recontamination problem are now under development. One approach is to substitute MB with another less problematic but effective fumigant. A second is to inoculate sterilized soil with beneficial microorganisms after treatment. A third represents a return to an old and all but forgotten practice, which is to replace sterilization procedures with soil organic matter management that provides control. Examples are applications of animal manures, green manures, composts or biocontrol-agent-fortified composts, which as described below can provide effective control of diseases, as well as insects and weeds if combined with herbicides and specific cultural practices.

Even if the alternative chemicals to MB succeed, biocontrol strategies still need to be developed to reduce recolonization of treated soil by pathogens. Much has been learned about biological control of soilborne plant pathogens during the past 60 years to facilitate the introduction of this integrated concept. Many types of biocontrol agents and plant growth promoting microorganisms have been identified. In general, this approach to control has not been very effective, and there is a lack of literature that addresses the recolonization of soils after sterilization.

 

The idea of filling a biological vacuum left after fumigation with beneficial microorganisms has not been practiced widely on a commercial scale. An exception is a preparation developed in Belgium (DCM Bio Fungust) in the late 1980s that consists of several isolates of Trichoderma harzianum, a well known biocontrol agent. This product has been used on a commercial scale for over a decade on many crops. It has improved yields in replicated field trials through both plant growth promotion and improvement of plant health. Today, Belgian fumigated soils are routinely treated with preparations containing T. havzianum or Trichoderma spp. and it has become a widely accepted practice there.

Disease Suppressive Composts As Alternatives

During the past two decades, considerable pro-gress has been made in the reintroduction of cultural practices into agriculture that offer opportunities for biological control. The nursery industry first observed that composted tree bark seemed to suppress Phytophthora root rots. It was discovered that woody plants requiring mycorrhizae for growth also performed much better in soil beds treated with composted bark than in those treated with MB.

It has been shown that Pythium and Phytophthora root rots indeed can be controlled most effectively in composted bark-amended container media. Physical and chemical properties of the mixes must be ideal for this to occur. Stabilized dark sphagnum peat mixes do not become suppressive, because the microbial carrying capacity of this highly humified source of organic matter is too low to support the activities of biocontrol agents.

Rhizoctonia solani, another important pathogen of many crops, usually is not controlled during the first few weeks after potting in compost-amended media suppressive to Phytophthora root rots. Seedlings are particularly susceptible to this patho-gen, making this tempo- ral absence of natural suppression to Rhizoctonia diseases in compost-amended mixes a problem on some crops. Rhizoctonia spp. can also cause losses in field agriculture after composts are first applied. . Long term curing of composts avoids these losses. The compost and the amended substrates eventually become suppressive to both types of diseases as effective biocontrol agents naturally colonize the mix or soil.

Rhizoctonia solani, as mentioned above, is most severe on young plants. Therefore, a fungicide drench has to be applied to susceptible potted greenhouse crops to prevent losses. Unfortunately, effective fungicides for control of R. solani destroy some of the biocontrol agents responsible for the naturally suppressive effects to species of Phytophthora and Pythium. Therefore, two fungicides have to control both types of pathogens (R. Solani as well as species of Pythium and Phytophthora) until the mix has become naturally suppressive due to colonization of the compost-amended mix with the right diversity of biocontrol agents. This integrated approach to root disease control (fungicides and natural suppression in compost-amended mixes) has become quite effective as a substitute for MB in the nursery industry.

During the 1970s, substitution of MB for control of diseases in field soil with compost was reported from the Nagano Valley in Japan, where Fusarium crown rot of Chinese yam was suppressed in a sandy soil amended with composted larch bark. This compost effectively replaced MB if a spray of benomyl was also applied to the soil at planting. The suppressive effect of the composted larch bark by itself against Fusarium crown rot was significant and also attributed to the activity of isolates of Trichoderma spp.

In spite of the beneficial effects obtained with composted tree bark, several factors prevent wide spread introduction of this concept into agriculture. First of all, composted bark is too costly for most agricultural applications, even though it can offer broad-spectrum disease control. Secondly, the supply of bark cannot possibly meet the demand in agriculture. This in itself does not pose a problem, however, because many other types of composts, such as composted manures, offer the same potential. Perhaps the most limiting factor, as explained below, is that composts do not consistently provide biological control of diseases caused by soilborne plant pathogens unless many factors are considered. Furthermore, most weeds and insect pests also are not controlled by composts.

One of the main reasons composted manures are not used widely in field agriculture is that the animal producing industries which generate manures have become separated almost completely from vegetable and fruit farms, and from nurseries and landscape sites where the greatest potential for utilization of these amendments exists. Transportation costs are too high for many potential applications. Chemical agriculture, for reasons mentioned above, allowed this spatial separation of farming systems to occur throughout much of the 20th century.

Today, farmers increasingly must distribute their manures off the farm because of inadequate availability of land on the farm for environmentally sound utilization of available nutrients in these products. Additionally, exposure of humans to pathogens in animal wastes, contamination of surface and ground waters and foods with these pathogens and nutrients has become an issue. Farmers are facing increasing pressures to develop better waste management procedures. Utilization of these resources by farmers not producing manures would offer a solution to this waste problem and turn a potential liability into an asset. In some farming systems, composted manures are already recognized as an additional source of revenue. However, full utilization of composts in most agricultural crops where MB is used requires that these treatments cost less than $1,000/acre. This problem is not easily resolved in all situations, mostly due to costs associated with transportation of composts.

Another limiting factor is that composts prepared from manures may vary in concentrations of essential plant nutrients and contain considerable amounts of sodium and chlorides. Salts in composts must be applied in quantities well below those stimulating species of Phytophthora and Pythium causing root rots. It has been shown in field trials that high-salinity products must be applied in the fall or winter well ahead of planting to allow for leaching and thus avoid an increase in Phytophthora root rot of soybean. Proper timing of the application provided control of the disease and increased soybean yields over that provided by the fungicide metalaxyl.

Compost Impact On N Fertility

The impacts of composts on nitrogen fertility must also be taken into consideration to avoid severe epidemics caused by plant pathogens. Phytophthora dieback of rhodododendron, Fusarium wilt of cyclamen and fireblight are examples of diseases that are increased in severity as a result of excessive N fertility introduced into container media with composted biosolids. The opposite effect may occur when composts are produced from products with a high carbon to nitrogen ratio, such as wood residues. Most high C:N ratio composts (>70:1) immobilize nitrogen. Thus, plants grown in such products suffer from chronic nitrogen deficiency resulting in lack of growth and increased susceptibility to stress pathogens or insects. The solution to these problems is to produce composts of consistent quality. The knowledge required for production of such composts is available but compost quality standards have not yet been implemented in many parts of the world.

The foregoing discussion reveals that nutritional factors need to be considered in formulating biocontrol strategies with composts. A major problem is that the fertility of composts cannot be predicted easily unless specific guidelines for the specific compost in question are available. Much of this information is not readily available to farmers. Furthermore, many composts placed on the market today are prepared from variable inputs, making predictability even more difficult, if not impossible, at this time.

Fumigants such as MB typically are applied as a precautionary measure yearly or every other year. MB can be used successfully when pathogens have reached populations that cause major losses. The same strategy unfortunately cannot be adopted if manures or composts are to be used for disease control. Unlike MB, which kills pathogens almost instantly, composts typically suppress or eradicate pathogens slowly and over a long period of time. Therefore, these amendments must be applied well before pathogens reach populations capable of causing losses, and this requires more management. More careful monitoring for particular pest problems, with greater emphasis on and attention paid to pest biology, will be required than is currently practiced in conventional agriculture and horticulture.

Utilizing Biocontrol Agents

We mentioned earlier that biocontrol agents do not consistently colonize all composts to induce biological control. One of the reasons is that most biocontrol agents are destroyed by heat treatment during the composting process. They must recolonize composts during the curing process and this does not always occur. Composts produced near a forest are much more likely to become colonized by effective microorganisms than the same compost produced in an enclosed system. Inoculation of mature composts with biocontrol agents has improved the consistency as well as the spectrum of disease suppression, particularly for R. Solani. Isolates of several Trichoderma spp. can provide effective control of this disease, and even better control if applied in combination with any of several bacterial biocontrol agents. This controlled inoculation strategy promises to improve efficacy and thus stimulate the adoption of this approach to biocontrol into every day agricultural practices.

In the potting mix industry, biocontrol agent-fortified composts seem to offer the greatest opportunities for commercialization. For example, a composted pine bark mix fortified with Flavobacterium balustinum 299 and Trichoderma hamatum 382 has been very effective for control of Fusarium wilt of cyclamen, Rhizoctonia diseases, in addition to Phytophthora and Pythium root rots of potted greenhouse crops. Drenching of potting mixes with a combination of soil fungicides that control the most important root diseases caused by species of Rhizoctonia, Pythium and Phytophthora costs approximately $10 per application per cubic yard of mix. Although most crops do not have to be treated more than once, some, such as poinsettia, Easter lily, azalea and rhododendron produced in conducive peat mixes, may have to be treated several times. Biocontrol agents can be inoculated into compost-amended mixes for less than 50 percent of the cost of a single combination fungicide drench, and this presents an opportunity.

A factor that is often overlooked by specialists working with biocontrol agents is the decomposition level of the organic matter in the potting mixes or soils. Fresh organic matter does not support biocontrol, even when inoculated with the best strains. High concentrations of free nutrients (glucose, amino acids, etc.) in fresh crop residues repress the production of enzymes required for parasitism by biocontrol agents such as Trichoderma spp. Composts must be stabilized well enough and colonized to a degree that microbiostasis prevails. As mentioned earlier, excessively humified organic matter, such as dark sphagnum peat, cannot support the activity of biocontrol agents. Organic matter with properties in between these to extreme degrees of decomposition level supports biological control. The rate of hydrolysis of fluorescein diacetate defines this property of composts and of amended soils. In this field too, however, much remains to be defined.

Looking Ahead

The loss of MB and our increased awareness of environmental problems caused by inadequate solid waste practices promises to provide a boost to the utilization of organic amendments in agriculture. This, in turn, will reduce the potential for soilborne plant pathogens to cause epidemics that cause major losses. In many applications, however, suitable alternatives to MB have yet to be developed. Especially in intensive horticultural systems where continuous cropping is practiced, MB may well be irreplaceable. No single alternative management technique is likely to replace MB in all its applications. Rather, groups of alternatives, integrated within various combinations depending on the needs of the grower, will be required to replace MB.

This integral pest management approach will also require careful monitoring for pest problems. Factors such as climate, soil type and structure, time of year, and crop will need to be considered. While this may prove to be inconvenient in the short run, over the long term it will lead to more sustainable agricultural practices while improving the environment on, as well as off, the farm. The nursery industry in many parts of the world already has taken advantage of these ideas. The same is occurring in other crops as farmers become more aware of these soil organic matter quality issues.

Harry A.J. Hoitink is professor of Plant Pathology at the Ohio State University, Wooster; Tom J.J. De Ceuster was a visiting scientist at the University and is now in The Netherlands.

Northwest VEG


Cool website for the NW vegans!

http://nwveg.org/vgardening

 

Article Worth Reading:

Veganic Gardening Overview for the Home Gardener

http://nwveg.org/news?entry=70

 

Some parts of this article go along with my next post for my soil amendments and currently garden container soil mix. I will begin composting my veggie scraps here soon and will update with info at that time. Got to build a compost bin and it has been a busy few weeks for me. Thanks for your patience if this interests you. Hopefully I can at least give some good reading/websites in the mean time.

Veganic, Sustainable, Organic – What can I do to Make my Garden Grow


Organic is an interesting topic that should be explored a bit. Organic is natural from manure, castings, vegetable plant compost, etc. This would mean that you don’t want any chemically produced amendments or nutrients in your soil. When I say organic I don’t mean USDA organic because the USDA doesn’t certify soil and amendments that can be used to create a soil. The only certification body that I know of that deals with soils and amendments is OMRI classification. I have heard mixed reviews about this OMRI certification. If you are in question about what makes a certain product OMRI certified you would be best to look into it by either checking their website or the manufacturers website. I don’t have total faith in any certification program unless I verify what is in the product by looking at ingredients, talking to the manufacturer, and checking the Material Safety Data SHeet (MSDS). The MSDS will help you clarify whether the product has anything in it that is harmful to humans or animals which if that is the case then I would say it is most likely to be chemically derived to some extent. The one product that I can mention here that is chemically created is pH up and down. The product in pH up is potassium hydroxide which is definitely created in a lab and this qualifies as none organic. There are some pH up ingredients like dolomite lime that are inorganic but are naturally mined. Mining though has a footprint so that is something to consider as you look for amendments to go in your soils.

 

This is a fun topic to get into depth with especially when you start looking at potential nutrients to add to your organic or vegan soil. Let me know if there are other certification programs out there that I haven’t mentioned. The next posting will most likely be a soil recipe that I am using right now. Unfortunately as I transition to my homemade soil this is the best I could come up with, but I do believe these are high quality products as well as somewhat responsible in the larger picture.

 

Stay Lifted and Happy Gardening!

Veganic, Sustainable, Organic – What can I do to Make my Garden Grow


So I have typed a bit about vegan and the qualifications for fitting in that category but the other techniques for gardening aren’t necessarily laid out in specific words. Sustainable and organic are other benchmarks for the mission of veganic vision. Today Sustainability is the topic! Organic will be the next post.

Sustainability is important because I want the footprint of my garden to be as small as possible. So if you talk about a footprint you are looking at the different inputs that allow you to get the materials you need to garden. So if a tool is made in another country, this takes the energy to harvest/mine the wood/metal, the energy input to process the materials, plus the packaging and shipping inputs into account as to the total “cost” of the good. This is done for the nutrients, soil, amendments, the plants themselves, the wood that it took to make the raised bed, containers, etc. etc. I imagine you can see that this is a very thorough way of thinking about the goods that are used and even to some maybe quite excessive. I believe that this needs to be done to really make this a great project as well as being a good steward of the Earth or more specifically to where I live. This is my personal goal to limit/reduce my impact on the Earth. To reduce the total input it costs less and its more fun. But it’s also a little more work.

Some ideas to become more sustainable are:

  • used tools from garage sales
  • create your own compost from vegetable/yard waste
  • worm bins (not vegan though)
  • compost teas instead of bottled nutrients
  • locally produced plants
  • locally produced nutrients, amendments and tools if they are new
  • it is important to source plants or seeds that are also created sustainably for instance I like Irish Eyes Seeds from Ellensburg, WA for my veggies seeds.
  • TGA subcool seeds for organic cannabis seeds or Kushman Massive Seeds would be qualified as veganic due to his gardening/breeding practices

This is not a complete list and I hope to add to this as I find more information! I encourage you to add a comment with any practices/techniques that you may use. I would love to incorporate some new methods into my garden.

Blog Agenda – What to expect in the coming days/months


Well basically the mission is to connect with people that enjoy gardening on any level, plant species is irrelevant. Continued education is the  foundation of this journey. There is so much information out there and so much to learn, it’s time to get started!

There are lots of topics on the agenda:

  • Vegan Agriculture
  • Organic Agriculture

Different ingredients in these fields

What is important in terms of nutrients?

Rating agencies like OMRI and USDA organic certification

How to make:

  1. compost bins both vegan and organic
  2. worm bins
  • ratios of materials
  • heat
  • uses of compost
  • sterility
  • etc

Discussion of specific plant cultivation tips and tricks

  • anything from tomatoes to cannabis

Indoor vs. Outdoor gardening

  • house plants
  • raised beds
  • inground gardens
  • best places for gardens N, S, E, W etc

Living Soil: Microbes, Bacteria and Enzymes are a big topic on my list to investigate

Discussion of politics in the farming world on any number of levels

  • national
  • state – WA mostly but I would love to highlight programs that are working in other places
  • local – Pierce Co.

Factory farming issues and the science behind the environmental affects to our:

  • food
  • the soil
  • humane treatment of animals
  • water quality
  • etc

Climate Change and its ever evolving science and data

These and other numerous topics that could arise once there is a foundation of regular readers and we can see what topics are also popular to you.

Please feel free to contact me if/when you have a question/suggestion/comment!

 

 

Veganic Gardening – What exactly is it?


What exactly is the definition of vegan gardening practices? This topic comes up a lot in conversations that I have with fellow gardeners in the real world. It seems to me that some have different views as to what exactly qualifies as a vegan amendment. As I see it, it means no substance that is a derivative of animals (i.e. manure (poop), castings, bone and blood meal, guano and bird droppings to name a few). I think this is a good place to ask others what they see as important factors that determines a vegan amendment. What is acceptable to you as a vegan gardener or vegan consumer? Is it important to have vegan soils and amendments to grow your plants in? Is it ideal but not necessarily feasible? I would love to hear some feedback on this so as to really expand my views on what is and isn’t vegan!

 

Another question on this subject is do you think that animals serve a place in the environment as a source for nutrients albeit not frequently? I know in the Northwest US the salmon die and end up feeding the soil on the trip back out to the sea along the rivers. I recognize that the most important factor is not supporting factory farming the damage done to our environment is unfathomable and seen in a lot of different facets and issues today. I will in a future post discuss factory farming in a little more depth to see what these exact problems are.

Vegan Farming – What it Looks Like


http://www.treehugger.com/files/2011/03/vegan-veganic-farming.php

 

This article discusses a farm that implements vegan farming and why. I like this example because it seems like they are using this method because of the right reasons. If sustainability is a concern using more veganic methods is the right choice. Just looking at the types of inputs they use to create their foods shows that veganic farming is ideal for great food and one that concerns finances. I personally don’t have anything against farmers that uses a local source of manure as nutrients for the soil to feed the plants. I know the energy needed to raise the animals is quite a lot more than it is to grow a cover crop in the winter that could accomplish this same task and at a lower cost. It really is all about what you see in your yard or garden and what is feasible where you live. These methods can be used on your farm or even in containers in the city. I hope to share some successes with composting and feeding the soil in containers to get some good veggies to supplement my food supply at a low cost!